Five Will Give You Ten

Happy 5th wedding anniversary to Prince William and the Duchess of Cambridge!

by Mario Testino Vogue UK January 2002

Shit

I couldn't get you raspberry yoghurt, so I got you meat 'n' potato pie instead. Is that alright?

Just heard the sad news about Victoria Wood. Absolutely gutted.

SK9 --> SKG

Recently I visited my childhood friend Amalia in the charming port city of Thessalonki, Greece. Named after Alexander the Great's sister, the city is a hidden treasure from most tourists and quite frankly, glorious. Let's put it this way, I originally intended to stay 9 days but ended up sticking around for a whole month! It's a city I utterly adore and am tempted to call home.

I'm eternally grateful to Amalia and her ace tech pals for showing me the grooviest spots and igniting my love for the city. Home was somewhere between the Arch of Galerius, Rotunda and the Turkish consulate ~ I was spoilt rotten! Although it was delightful exploring the city's best jaunts, it's the evenings spent lounging around eating Pizza Chris and playing Turbo play that I'll cherish most.

Amalia is a core member of the SheSharp team, who encourage woman to engage with the often male dominated tech and science industries, as well as a co-organiser of DEVit Web Conference. She's also a member of the local circus as an aerialist and the most hilarious / thoughtful girl you'll ever meet. Can you tell I'm mega proud to call her my friend? <3

It was through attending one of the weekly SheSharp meetings that I came across my favourite rock bar, Adito. It didn't take me long to get pally with the bar staff and locals, in fact I think I visited Adito more than I had hot dinners! Shout out to 8ball opposite, all within the iconic Ladadika boozing strip, who throw an iconic disco every Friday.

Around my neck of the woods there was some groovy bars too such as Colombia with its garish multi coloured chairs. Hemingway with its dim lighting and sophisticated backdrop of music. Pastaflora Darling with its moreish margaritas and S.N.O.W interior (shit stuck on walls). Also the sublime Aigli Geni Hamam ~ a converted 16th century hamam / bar with giant disco balls, violet lighting and surreal acoustics.

The bold coloured chairs of Colombia always remind me of the cafe from 90s Greek comedy series To Kafe Tis Xaras, anyone? Just me?

Although Thessaloniki is a thriving city, it always thrilled me to take a walk across Nea Paralia as the sunset across the sea.

Whilst Amalia was at uni, I'd either be watching melodramatic B&W Greek films on the couch whilst digging into bougatsa, getting lost in the cities winding streets, or digging into takeout pastitsio from student friendly Edessaiko. 

I'd recommend visiting Thessaloniki to just about anyone, but Techies in particular! Here's a fascinating article that shines a light on the city where it's happening. Right now. Amalia's pals also have an ace weekly podcast dedicated to shedding light on the inner workings of startups and how to build them!

If there's one thing I implore you do if you visit, it's head to Bougatsa Giannis. The city is renowned for its perfected bougatsa and there's no recipe quite like Giannis! Try the classic (sweet pastry filled with custard, topped with icing powder and cinnamon) or his equally indulgent savoury ham and cheese spin on it. Whether it's at 7am with morning punters heading to the office or 5am folks crawling home after a mad one, this joint is always the toast of the town. & rightly so.

When you've had a busy day visiting the consulate.

 The BOUGATSA consulate lol.

Speaking of vromiko (food you get on your way home from a night out - AMAZED that us Brits don't have a better word for that than scran), Labros' crepes are also a winner. Official name on Google Maps is Twins, but all the cool kids call it Labros after the much loved owner who's there at all hours. Trust me, we went there. At all hours.

One of the first things I did upon arrival, naturally, was devour my first of many gyros. You should've seen my face when I discovered that the standard gyro sauce over there is tirokafteri (mildly spicy cheese dip) as opposed to the classic tzatziki. I could get used to that!

CAN WE JUST TAKE A MOMENT TO APPRECIATE THAT AT THE DROP OF A HAT I COULD ORDER PITA GYROS TO OUR FRONT DOOR? WHAT A TIME 2 B ALIVE!!

If you're after something a wee different, head off the beaten track to the Bit Bazaar markets. I must have spent a good half hour digging through one market sellers goldmine of B&W photos (poor Amalia!).

Another top recommendation is climbing up to the old Byzantine castle Castra to enjoy the magnificent view of the city.

There are also numerous grand churches dotted around the city, my favourite being Agios Dimitrios. Beside the alter they actually have a prayer box in which you can write names down on a pen and paper and drop into the box, ready for the priest to bless on the next service. Amalia did the honours for me and it still makes me chuckle watching her adorably attempt to spell my grandmothers name in Greek. It's Maureen, by the way.

There's too many snazzy cafes to mention, but my favourite had to be Piece of Cake. Join the Juice is also ace for the morning after when you need that vitamin C hit. Their Cleopatra juice (apple, pineapple, passion fruit) always goes down a treat too. Serpente (which is sadly no longer open) was a coffee house we visited to have our fortunes read from our tea grounds on a napkin. As you do.

As Thessaloniki is largely a student city, there's always countless gigs and kooky events going on. On one of my final nights we saw the inimitable Matt Elliott at Mylos. He performed a haunting rendition of Misirlou.

There's a wealth of traditional tavernas in the heart of the city and I was lucky enough to be taken to some right corkers. Parelthon was one of our locals and only an hour ago I was craving their octopus pasta! One night post TechMinistry (now Lambda Space) meeting, we all headed to Elia Lemoni for a feast.

 SO MANY HANDS!

One of my final meals was ironically at Hola Mexicana and reminded me of that jazzy place from O Autokratoras Exei Kefia.

Check out the sombrero lampshades!

I'm so giddy to return and make more memories in this enchanting city. I also wanna smoother Antigone's majestic white cat Gandalf in kisses!

So regal. So very regal.

I thought I'd share one of my favourite memories of my trip. One night we found ourselves ravenous for pizza on our way home from Laladika when I tripped entering a takeout shop due to its crooked step. Rather than apologise, the owner joked that I was dancing the zeibekiko. I've never been prouder to call myself Greek! Although I'm sure a Manc would've equally asked me to send a postcard next time! ;-)

Spiros goofing around. What a top bloke!

When your neighbours bring you authentic walnut loukoumi from Ioannina! <3 <3 <3 

I swear I did other things than eat. Surely...

P.S: If I can't persuade you to visit, let these adorable folks.